Sunday, November 11, 2012

Away from Croatian Beaches: 5 Restaurants to Try Inland on Hvar

Hvar's gastronomic offer is not confined to the coast. Head inland for some traditional Dalmatian fare in authentic stone surroundings. Five of the best.
Konoba Stori Komin: Authentic Dining in an Abandoned Village - Chris Connor (http://)
Lazy lunches and romantic dinners by the water are an obvious attraction on Hvar, but the gastronomic offer inland is no less appealing, both in terms of cuisine and location. Here are five of the best.
Stori Komin, Malo Grablje
If you are looking for a true Dalmatian gem, hidden away from the crowds, instead of turning right to the fishing village of Milna, just outside Hvar Town, carry on instead for a few more metres before turning left up an non-tarmac road to the village of Malo Grablje.
Soon the magical village of Malo Grablje comes into view, totally abandoned for decades by the locals who moved to Milna, a spectacular setting for a lunch of traditional Dalmatian fare. As luck would have it, the only building in the village to be functioning is the outstanding Stori Komin, Authentic local cuisine at its best, the food even more impressive than the stunning stone backdrop.
Konoba Kokot, Dol
Unfashionable Dol is coming out of the shadows, and tourists are discovering the hidden gems of the village which include the art studio, Atelier Marinka, and holistic yoga retreat,Suncokret. Lovers of organic food, and vegetarians in search of a good choice (not easy to find in Croatia), should head to the family-run Konoba Kokot,
The owners are organic farmers rearing their own sheep and goats, as well as growing a wide variety of fruits and vegetables. Extremely friendly service is accompanied by quality food, including some of the best lamb on the island. A vegetarian recommendation is the delicious wild asparagus crepes with fresh melted goat's cheese.
Konoba Bogo, Vrbanj
Recently and tastefully renovated, Konoba Bogo is an excellent addition to Hvar's largest living village. Situated opposite the church, it is the perfect place to drop in for a drink after investigating the eccentric and colourful complex created by the local priest, which includes a purple house, model village with Snow White and the Seven Dwarves and a souvenir shop.
The food is excellent, traditional Dalmatian fare at more affordable prices than can be found on the coast. Renovated to include many original stone features, Bogo's has a large outside space, making it a good choice for families, while children can safely investigate the treasures across the road.
Dvor Dubokovic, Pitve
Sometimes the extra money is worth it for the perfect setting, and it would be hard to beat the magical atmosphere that father and son Ivica and Frankie Dubokovic have created in Pitve, the oldest village on the island. An exquisite view to Jelsa and the sea below is accompanied by an authentic Dalmatian stone ambience as good as any on the island.
So much so that the restaurant is gaining in popularity as a wedding reception destination, with the house speciality peka - octopus, lamb or veal 'under the bell' - an excellent homemade red and some wonderful impromptu Dalmatian singing by the hosts. Also open out of season by appointment.
Konoba Humac, Humac
While the majority of the tourist action takes place to the West and South of Jelsa, there is one gem which should be sought out - Konoba Humac in the abandoned village of the same name. Superbly restored in traditional style, the restaurant offers an unforgettable rustic experience, breathtaking views and quality traditional food.
For tourists wanting to be a little closer however, there is even more choice, including thesefive coastal restaurants.

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